Big and Tall Clothing Tips & Men’s Fashion Advice , Suits & Shirts for Short Chubby Guys

Transcript

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Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette!
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In this video, we talk about big and tall clothing such as suits, shirts, but we also
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discuss what men can wear if they’re shorter and have a belly.
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When you’re a portly man, you really have to pay attention to your fit.
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The problem is, it’s very hard for you to find a good suit that fits you.
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Now when you buy a suit off the rack, you have to bear in mind that what happens when
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they size it just gets gradually bigger and smaller all over.
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That means if you get a large suit that fits around your belly, it’s also going to be longer
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and wider in the chest.
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While you can shorten sleeves, you cannot shorten the length of the jacket because otherwise,
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everything looks disproportionate and especially the buttoning point gets too low which makes
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it look like you have short legs and everything looks unfavorable.
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If you are big and tall, it’s relatively easy because there are specialized stores that
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provide suits for you.
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If that’s the case, you can go off the rack and go to your alterations tailor afterwards.
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If you are not tall but have a bit of a belly, you should really invest in a made to measure
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program or ideally, bespoke because you’ll get much better results.
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Here are a few key points to pay attention to when you buy a suit.
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First of all, you want it to be single-breasted, not a double breasted because that makes you
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look wider and you want to enhance the look and make you look slimmer visually.
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Next up is to skip the belt.
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With a belt, your trousers will slide down, it may look uncomfortable for you.
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If you substitute them for suspenders, the pants will look more flattering, it will be
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more comfortable because they can be a little wider and everything rests on your shoulder.
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You should also opt for pleats because they give you a little more room which not only
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makes everything look more proportional but it’s also more comfortable when you sit.
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If you really want to provide a polished look, try to go with a vest but you have to make
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sure that the rise of your trousers is high enough so the vest covers the waistband of
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the pants otherwise, it looks odd and you should skip the vest.
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One thing I often see with suits of big men is that their shoulder is super extended.
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Ideally, you should feel where your shoulder bone is and that’s where the shoulder should
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end or just slightly extend.
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Again, this is a problem off the rack, also the shoulders get wider then you look like
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a football player and it makes you look even bigger than you actually are.
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At the same time, you want to avoid having overly tight garments especially on your buttoning
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point, you don’t want to see any X wrinkles because it’s a clear indication that the garment
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is too tight.
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In terms of lapel width, I suggest you skip the skinny lapel because it just doesn’t go
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with your built.
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Opt for something classic that’s about 3-3 1/2 inches wide.
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The same is true for ties, you should go for a classic, 9cm, 3 1/2 width because it wors
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better with your physique.
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When you have a bigger belly, you have to make sure that your tie is a little longer
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otherwise, it can look quite short and more like a boy’s tie.
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For a selection of ties in three different lengths, please check out our shop here.
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In terms of vents, you should always skip the middle vent becuse it’s more likely to
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gap on your seat and then looks unfavorable.
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Therefore, I suggest, you go with 2 side vents that gives you more room, looks more dapper,
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and you’ll be more comfortable.
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In terms of colors and patterns, I suggest you start out with solids because you don’t
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want to wear something that is too flashy.
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Maybe a subtle stripe or some windowpane of navys, grays, dark grays would be just fine.
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Really, focus more on the fit because that will flatter you overall much more.
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For shirts, a classic white or light blue is a perfect place to start.
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Later on maybe you add some pink but always make sure to keep it pale and never go with
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strong colors because it will harmonize well with your darker suits.
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Shirts off the rack have the same problem as the jackets.
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Usually, everything scales.
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That means that the collar is often way too wide and it looks very sloppy.
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Customized shirts or made to measure shirts are very affordable and you can find them
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online starting at 30 bucks. of course, at that price, you really have to make compromises
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about the fabric quality but since fit is the most important thing, you can start there
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if you can’t afford more and then slowly work your way up.
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When it comes to shirt collars, you want to get a slim, classic collar.
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Why? because it gives you a slimming effect.
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On the other hand, a widespread, cutaway collar makes you look bigger than you actually are
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and you want to avoid that because you’re already a little more portly.
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At the same time, you do not want to go with a very small collar because you’re a bigger
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guy, everything has to be proportional.
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Stay away from fashiony short collars and go for something more substantial, bigger
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that is not too spread.
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When it comes to tie knots, you should go for something medium sized, maybe a four in
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hand, oriental with a thicker interlining, or maybe a half windsor but stay clear of
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the double windsor because it’s too big and makes you look even bigger.
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If you want to learn how to tie a tie knot, please check out our series here.
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When it comes to your shirt cuffs, you want to make sure that they fit tightly against
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your wrist and that you show about a quarter to half an inch of cuff, makes you look very
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dapper and if you want, you can also go with cuff links.
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If you want to have the luxury of made to measure or bespoke, discuss with your tailor
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if you can increase the size of the buttons and the flap pockets because everything will
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look more proportional and will make you look smaller.
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When posing for pictures, stand slightly at an angle because it will have a slimming effect
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on you.
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Also, try to put your chin forward and down because it avoids you having a double chin
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which makes you look even bigger.
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If you’re a bigger guy, it is in fact more difficult to find a well fitting suit but
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can really look great if you follow those tips.
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On top of that, you can up your wardrobe and your look with accessories such as a nice
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pocketsquare, or maybe even a boutonniere.
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I suggest you keep it simple and get either a pocketsquare or a boutonniere or maybe some
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elegant over the calf socks.
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When it comes to shoes, you should invest in a proper pair of goodyear welted oxfords
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or derbys.
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You can learn more about those, here.
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This is particularly important for you because your feet have to carry a heavier load and
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over the course of the day, that can be more tiring.
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You want to be sure that you’re comfortable, and stylish and the same time.
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If you enjoyed this video, please sign up to our email list where we have great tips
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on how you should improve your outfit on a regular basis.
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Thank you.